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Having traversed the globe with nomadic chefs hellbent on bettering themselves through collaboration; dipped into the effects that the shareconomy is having on our culinary habits; found that very big reputations can hail from very small dining rooms; and reiterated that we won’t be putting a stop to comfort eating in public any time soon, part one in our dissection of F&B’s multiple directions for 2017 ended on a note of shameless positivity — the general attitude towards doing good playing out across a broad line-up of gastronomic disciplines. Let’s continue our soak in the cheery waters of optimism …
Everybody knows that veggies are good news, and they’ll continue to make headlines in the food and drink scene this year; farm-to-table set to become a term you’ll find impossible to escape. One ambitious San Francisco restaurant, though, is on a mission to change forever what we associate as ‘being good’ in the world of dining out. Claiming that ‘agriculture has the potential to reverse climate change’, San Francisco’s The Perennial is an eco-minded restaurant and bar on a relentless quest to be as good as they possibly can be; to reimagine the restaurant industry. Their drive to make positive change will make you feel bad about yourself, their food won’t. Combining sustainability with incredible cuisine and beautiful interiors, The Perennial’s commitment to doing the right thing is remarkable. I won’t go into detail (it would be an extensive essay in its own right), but Anthony Myint and Karen Leibowitz have left practically no stone unturned.
An offsite ‘aquaponic greenhouse’ is the heart of the operation (a closed-loop system that takes waste from kitchen to compost and back to plate again) with plants and fish grown and fed on what other establishments would consign to bin-bags; but all aspects from interior design to collaborations with carbon farmers and experiments with everlasting grains has been meticulously considered.
One man’s trash …
Waste is a hot topic way beyond San Francisco, with countless operations realising the need to take sustainability to new heights. Revered New York chef Dan Barber transformed his West Village restaurant Blue Hill into pop-up wastED in 2015 — each dish made from ingredients most people would consider fit for rats — whilst British chef Douglas McMaster and Dutch artist Joost Bakker’s Silo concept (a zero-waste restaurant that began life in Melbourne and can now be found in Brighton) makes similarly profound commitments; an ‘aerobic digester’ that can generate up to 60kg of compost per day (spare capacity offered as a service to neighbours and local residents), onsite pre-industrial flour mill, plates made from plastic bags … it goes on. A side project is Old Tree, a brewery that creates fermented drinks (kombucha, lemonade, ancient mead, ciders and beers) from foraged and intercepted plants, herbs, vegetables and fruits.
Indeed, foraging has been the buzzword since Noma was first acclaimed world’s best in 2010, expect it to extend beyond the kitchen this year; everything from dandelion, burdock, maple sap, mushrooms, and horehound being put to use by innovative brewers like Chicago’s Forbidden Root and Scratch Brewing Company downstate in Southern Illinois as the craft beer scene’s appetite for locality, imagination and quality drives a trend for foraged beer.
Craft beer beyond the beard.
Craft beer has, of course, been big news for some years, but 2017 might see it finally make its move out of heavily bearded shadows; with beer bars going high-end, and top chefs favouring hops over grapes. November saw Chicago’s Band of Bohemia become the first United States brewpub to earn a Michelin star, Brooklyn’s Nordic-inspired restaurant Luksus — co-founded by Evil Twin Brewing’s Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø — achieving the same honour in the previous year’s guide; Jarnit-Bjergsøalso having recently worked as a consultant for restaurants like Noma and Momofuku, and created a line of beers for two Michelin-starred Mathias Dahlgren (the only Swede to have won the prestigious Bocuse d’Or), a self-confessed beer geek keen to promote beer and food pairings at his restaurants.
Indeed, beer in fine dining restaurants is on the rise — brews outweigh wines on the drinks pairing menu at the Adrià brothers’ experimental Barcelona ode to Japanese and Peruvian fusion, Pakta, and even fussy old school dining rooms like London’s Le Gavroche now have a dedicated beer menu. Conversely, hip breweries like Copenhagen’s To Øl and Mikkeller are opening restaurants of their own (Spontan and Øl & Brød respectively) that look way beyond pizzas and pulled pork.
Evidence suggests that our fixation with beer dates back as long as 7,000 years, chemical tests of ancient pottery found in what is now Iran supporting that notion, so it might seem a little perplexing to be talking about it as a trend, but just imagine how Hawaiians are feeling right now; their humble ‘poke’ a veritable social media sensation. A staple of islanders’ diets since the 1950s, the fresh fish salad bowl is what they call ‘so hot right now’, and poke restaurants and take-aways are opening up from New York to London, Paris to Barcelona and beyond, but are not the only bowl-related craze worth taking note of.
Different bowl game.
The Korean bibimbap is a rice dish also attaining some level of global ubiquity, whilst London restaurant Shuang Shuang was the first of its kind to arrive on British shores last year, Fah Sundravorakul introducing his beloved Chinese hot pot (a simmering communal bowl in which to boil all manner of diverse ingredients) to a whole new audience in quirky surrounds; the Vietnamese pho, too, continued its international ascendancy. Talking of Southeast Asia, you might think the region’s various cuisines had been plundered by the west for all they had. You were wrong. Renowned Manila eatery, Romulo Café, opened its doors in Kensington last year, and the tiny space of Washington, D.C.’s Bad Saint offered up similar delights to its diners. Bringing together culinary inspirations as wide-ranging as Malaysian, Chinese and Spanish, Filipino food is en vogue and, as anyone who’s had the pleasure to eat it will attest, this is a good thing.
Retro Hawaiian lunchtime snacks and fine dining crafted from rubbish, the continuing explosion of craft beer and restaurants with a devout ambition to reverse climate change. I opened part one of this digest of where food and drink finds itself at the beginning of 2017 by suggesting that the internet had turned the trend machine into an inescapable whirlpool where almost nobody can stay afloat in the quest to keep up; F&B trends in 2017 are somewhat of a Chinese hot pot of their own, ingredients wide and varied sizzling at boiling point. It is nigh on impossible to pinpoint trends or to coin movements, and isn’t that a great place to be?
The freneticism of food and drink tight now means that countless boggling things are happening, online and offline, and in every corner of the world. Le Turtle, a hip New York restaurant that sounds like an elaborate joke from Nathan Barley, is gaining accolades and causing profound confusion in equal measures; there is a deconstructed whisky tart which involves washing your hands in whisky and sniffing them as you eat on the menu at Disfrutar, the lauded Barcelona restaurant founded by three former elBulli chefs; the rising star chef at Hong Kong’s Belon has had to cap orders of his £30-$45 chicken wing to ten per service (‘it’s not fair to the team to have to cook the same thing all night’); Heston Blumenthal has announced he is collaborating with experiential art/design studio Marshmallow Laser Feast on a virtual reality project (of course he has); and artist Georgia-Rose Fairman beguiles her Instagram followers with hyper-realistic cakes that resemble everything from a dead body to a live trout. Keeping up?
Eat your art out.
If there was one unified motion that could be gleaned from the dizzying flow of eccentricity that inhabits kitchens and dining rooms the world over, it is that food and art are better friends than ever before. Dalí’s bonkers amalgam of surrealism, gastronomy and erotica — Les diners de Gala — was reprinted last year by Taschen, no doubt inspired by the countless creative publications that have been launched in recent years; independent magazines like The Gourmand, Fuet, Put A Egg On It, Sabor, Cured, and Brutal aligning culture and cuisine closer and closer. Think of it as the Instagram food revolution cranked up to 11; where piñata birthday cakes are replaced by fashion shoots with legs of jamón ibérico wearing Louboutins.
Sure, from The Last Supper to Warhol’s Campbell’s cans, food has forever been tied to the art world, but with plates at the world’s most awarded restaurants increasingly resembling the frenzied expressionism of Jackson Pollock, the divide between the two worlds is a line steadily more blurred.
Between 7 July and 2 September last year, Los Angeles gallery M+B hosted PLEASE HAVE ENOUGH ACID IN THE DISH!, a bona fide art exhibition curated by Vinny Dotolo, a James Beard Award-winning chef. Works from names like noted pop artist Ed Ruscha and emerging stars Jonas Wood and Eric Yahnker; Big Macs in plexi boxes; a redhead bombshell with chilli fries in place of her face; in 2017 it’s difficult to tell whether it’s the artists inspiring the chefs or vice versa — from Mark Hix’s notable obsession with the YBAs to René Redzepi creating edible conceptual art with his ant-studded shrimp with a pulse. Let the real creatives reclaim culinary aesthetic from the iPhone-conjoined hands of the influencer elite.
So there you have it. Trends? Pigeonholes there to be gleefully obliterated. You can take my observations and find a way to work them into whatever it is you are doing, or you can watch some punk gigs on YouTube, dive into William S. Burroughs’ Naked Lunch, or just spend the day playing video games. Just please remember: gastronomy is an art form, and in art, there are no rules.
James Davidson is a contributing writer for THE SHIFT and editor-in-chief of We Heart, an online design and lifestyle magazine that he founded in 2009 as a personal blog and now receives over half a million monthly views.
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Thursday, September 2, 2010
Leitrim’s Unrepentant Communist- Jim Gralton
On August 13, 1933 Jim Gralton was forced to board a Trans-Atlantic Liner in Cork which was to set sail for the USA. Jim had been arrested on August 10 at a friend’s house in Gorvagh, County Leitrim and brought to Ballinamore Barracks where he was detained before being brought to Cork for his deportation. He had been living on the run since February of that year following the issuing of a deportation order by the courts who ruled that he had to leave Ireland by March 5. His deportation 77 years ago makes him the only native Irishman to be deported from this state.
He was born in Effernagh close to Carrick on Shannon in County Leitrim on April 17 1886. His education, such as it was, was received in nearby Kiltoghert school. Like most young people at the time, he left school early, aged just 14. After working for a number of employers in the local area, fed up with the harsh treatment he and others suffered at their hands, Jim headed for Dublin where he enlisted in the British army.
His rebellious behaviour was not long coming through and he endured punishment of 84 days on “bread and water” for his refusal to shine the leggings and buttons of one of his officers. He was then posted to India, but refused to go in protest at British policies in Ireland. For his defiance and protest, Jim was jailed for a year and subsequently deserted the army, going to work for a time in the coal mines of Wales and in Liverpool docks.
He then got employment as a ship’s stoker and eventually settled in New York where he became a US citizen in 1909. In the midst of the great wealth in the USA, Jim was appalled at the harsh, slave-like conditions that workers endured, which led him to become a firm believer in supporting the rights of workers and in socialism.
From the time he arrived in the US, Jim was active in supporting and raising much needed funds for both the Irish republican struggle and for fellow workers in New York. He became a member of the US Communist Party and became heavily involved in trade union activity. In the wake of the 1916 Rising, and after studying of the writings of James Connolly, Jim became a founding member of the James Connolly Club in New York.
Almost a decade and a half after arriving in the US, Jim decided to return home to Ireland in June 1921, just a month before the truce in the Tan War commenced on the 11th of July. During the war, the notorious Black and Tans had burnt the local Temperance Hall beside Gowel Church to the ground. On his return, Jim promised local people he would replace it and set about, with his own money and with local support, building a new hall on his father’s land near Effernagh crossroads.
The new hall, named the Pearse-Connolly Hall, was eventually opened on December 31 1921 and became an integral part of the everyday lives of the local community. Amongst its many uses was the holding in classes of a wide range of subjects including Irish, English, music, dancing, civics and agricultural science. This was also a time of many land disputes and the Hall was also used to hold Land Courts to settle many of these disputes. Despite the good work Jim was doing for his community and despite the valuable educational service that was been provided, not everyone was happy.
The Catholic Church in particular were extremely unhappy. They denounced him at every opportunity, at the pulpit during mass and in letters, going as far as to describe him as an extremely dangerous socialist and even an “Anti-Christ”. They accused him of “leading a campaign of Land agitation”, of trying to take the youth of the area away from the Catholic Church and of teaching communism to them in his classes.
The Free State forces also were unhappy with his activities, and on May 24 1922, they raided the Hall in a failed attempt to arrest Jim. The following month, as Civil War loomed, he got out and returned to the US. He did not return to Ireland until 1932 following the death of his brother Charlie who looked after and ran the family farm and following the securing of power in the Twenty-Six Counties by Fianna Fáil. Like many other people at that time, Jim was of the mistaken belief that a Fianna Fáil government would allow for the development of progressive politics in his homeland.
Following his return to Ireland, Jim re-opened the Pearse-Connolly Hall which had been closed for many years while he was in the US. He also involved himself once again in left-wing agitation, joining the Revolutionary Workers’ Group [a forerunner of the Communist Party of Ireland]. As well as the hall being used for dances and other social activities, meetings were also held there highlighting issues such as unemployment and the rights of workers and tenants.
He spoke at many anti-eviction meetings and following the eviction of a worker from his home in Keadue, in Co Roscommon, Jim joined with a local IRA group in re-instating the worker and his family back into their family home. This radicalism and persistent campaigning on such issues was of major concern once again to conservatives in general and to the Catholic Church and Fianna Fáil in particular.
Once again, Jim was denounced as a massive campaign was launched by the clergy against him and the views he represented. Shamefully, many of his former comrades turned their backs on him, as the church demanded that the Hall, which they described as a “den of iniquity” be shut down.
The Hall came under physical attack on many occasions. Shots were fired into it during a dance and an attempt to blow it up with a bomb failed. Finally, on Christmas Eve 1932, the Hall was eventually destroyed when it was burned to the ground.
In February of 1933, at the behest of the Catholic Church, the Fianna Fáil government ordered the deportation of Jim from his homeland by March 5 on the spurious grounds of him being an “undesirable alien”. Instead of complying with the order, Jim went on the run, staying with friends and neighbours in the area. During his time on the run, the Revolutionary Workers’ Group organised a campaign in support of Jim. Public meetings were organised and addressed by Jim himself, and by other prominent republican socialists of the time such as George Gilmore and Peadar O’Donnell. Many of these meetings were attacked and broken up by reactionaries.
Finally on August 10 1933, the Free State caught up with Jim, capturing him at a friend’s house in Gorvagh. He was taken to Ballinamore Barracks where he was detained before being transported to Cork where he was put on board a Trans-Atlantic Liner and deported to the US against his will. He was never again allowed to return to Ireland.
Undeterred, upon his arrival back in the US, Jim once again got involved in trade unionism and left wing politics. Along with Gerald O’Reilly, a close colleague of George Gilmore, Jim set up the Irish Workers’ Group in New York. He became a trade union organiser, encouraging the involvement of women within the unions, and set about promoting, republishing and distributing the works of James Connolly. During the Spanish Civil War, he raised funds for the International Brigades who were going to Spain to fight against fascism and in defence of the Republic.
A committed and unrepentant communist up to his last breath, Jim Gralton died in exile in New York on December 29 1945 and is buried in Woodlawn cemetery in the Bronx area of the City.
To conclude fittingly, the final words go to a comrade of Jim’s, Charlie Byrne. Speaking at Jim’s Graveside in the Bronx in 2005 to commemorate the 60th anniversary of his death, Charlie said:
“Let all of us who believe in the principles for which Gralton stood, pledge ourselves anew to the continuation of the fight for the complete political, cultural and economic rights of the working classes in all lands, no crying, no weeping over his grave at Woodlawn. There is work to be done, so let us carry on; Gralton would have it that way.”
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